Archive for the ‘Cultural Care’ Category

Does this sound familiar to you? There are a few factors that may come into play with this statement that I will try and help you with. The first is, most people underwater their hanging baskets and planters. When you water your baskets/planters you need to make sure that you see a constant drip of water coming from the bottom of the pot. If you do not see the water flowing through that means that the water has not soaked all the way down to the bottom of your soil. If you soil does not get completely wet this will lead to the plant drying out faster. Another factor is wind and heat. When your planters are exposed to a windy location this will tend to dry them out faster. Also the heat from the hot sun will deplete the water much faster. And lastly there are some plants that are just plain thirsty! If you have Bacopa or Lobularia for example you will want to keep your baskets well hydrated for to keep them looking good.

The i3 planter can help you keep your baskets irrigated all summer long for great looking baskets. And as an added bonus they also have lights to keep your beautiful plants light up at night to show off to all your neighbors.

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Let the EasyBloom™ Plant Sensor Help you out!

Want to know what to grow?
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• Can I grow tomatoes on my patio and parsley in my windowsill?
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• How can I find new flowers for my yard this year?
• How can I stop killing plants and wasting money on landscaping that dies?
• How can I end gardening by trial and error?

Answer:
The #1 selling garden tool, EasyBloom™ Plant Sensor.

To see more about easy bloom click on the video link below

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Upon receiving your new plants, it is important to open the shipping box(es) immediately. Carefully remove all packing materials and containerized plants from the carton(s). Do NOT keep the plants in the shipping boxes as this will reduce plant quality and may lead to plant disease or death.

If the potting mix is dry upon arrival, apply water to the containers until the root zone is thoroughly moist. When possible, plant your new perennials within 1-3 days after they have been received. If it is not possible to plant them within this time period, keep them in an area that provides some degree of shelter from the natural elements (sun, wind, rain, etc…) until they can be planted.

4 easy Steps to planting your potted plants

*Prepare a hole that is 2 times as wide and deep as your pot. Work the soil to loosen it up and replace half the soil in the   hole

*Squeeze the pot a few times and while holding the plant hit the bottom to loosen the plant, it should slide right out.

*Set the plant in them  hole approximately 1 inch above the ground. Replace the loosen soil around the plant, add in water and press the soil down. If the plant is sitting to low in the ground you may need to add additional soil in the bottom of the hole.

*You may cover the area around the plant with mulch and you are finished.

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Perennial Planting & Soil Preparation

In general, most perennials prefer being planted in sites with well drained soil. The drainage in poor soils can be improved by adding organic matter like, compost, leaves, peat moss, or aged manure. For new perennial beds, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of organic matter into the soil before planting. When transplanting new perennials into an existing garden, incorporate a few handfuls of organic materials into the hole prior to planting.

In general, dig a planting hole at least 50% larger then the size of the container you are planting. Larger sized holes should be dug when you intend to mix in organic material. Carefully remove the perennial from the container by holding one hand over the top of the pot and turn the container upside down. Gently tap the bottom of the pot to loosen the root zone from the container and gently pull the pot away. If the container does not easily come off, it may be necessary to squeeze the container until the plant comes out of the pot.
Next, place the plant in the hole so the top of root ball is at the same level as the top of the hole. It may be necessary to remove the plant and place a little soil back in the bottom of the planting hole and retry aligning the top of the hole with the top of the root ball. Many perennials do not tolerate being planted too deeply and may not grow very well or may succumb to crown and root rots. Conversely, perennials planted too high may not grow properly and are more susceptible to drying out. Once the plants are at the proper height, fill in the planting hole with soil, gently packing the soil around the roots and being careful to not overly pack or compact the soil around the new planting.

After planting, it is important to water them well. For the first couple of weeks or so, it is important to keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet. Keep in mind that many new plantings do not perform well or even die because they are either over- or under-watered. Once they are established, most perennials can tolerate less moisture. For optimum growth, it is recommended to deliver 1 inch of water per week either by rainfall or through irrigation systems.

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Caring for Your Phlox

Description: With its aromatic, bright, and showy long-lasting flower clusters Phlox paniculata has become a staple in today’s landscapes. Garden phlox is one of the most recognizable and widely grown perennials.

Recent breeding efforts have brought several improvements to this already popular species of perennial plants including a wide range of flower colors available, improved plant habit, and increased resistance to diseases.

Garden phlox is the backbone of the summer perennial border and is also a great perennial for open sunny locations. The striking and fragrant trumpet-shaped flower clusters appear in the mid-summer and always deliver a spectacular display of color when they are blooming. Today’s cultivars produce a wide range of flower colorations consisting of various hues of lavender, orange, pink, purple, red, salmon, scarlet, and white. Many cultivars have contrasting colored eyes or bicolor blooms.

Maintenance: Phlox are easy to grow and only require few maintenance activities. It is recommended to remove the flower heads when they are done flowering. Taller cultivars may need additional support from cages or staking to prevent the flower clusters from lodging. To reduce the occurrence of powdery mildew, thin or divide large clumps every year or two to improve the air circulation around the plants.

Pests and Diseases: Some of the most common insect pests that may be observed feeding on Phlox include aphids, beetles, caterpillars, grasshoppers, leafhoppers, leafminers, and spider mites, whiteflies. Most of these pests, under normal circumstances, do not cause significant injury to garden Phlox.

Garden phlox are susceptible to several pathogens including fungal leaf spots, powdery mildew, and stem canker diseases. Of these diseases, powdery mildew is observed most frequently. There are great differences between cultivars in their susceptibility to powdery mildew. Even highly resistant cultivars may succumb to this disease under severe or optimal conditions for disease development. This occurrence of this disease can be reduced when the plants are planted in areas with good air circulation, the plants are not crowded, and by avoiding overhead irrigation (wet foliage).

Uses in the Garden: Garden Phlox are commonly used as accent or aromatic border plants. They are also resistant to deer.

Other Uses and Attributes: This Native American perennial attracts butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. Phlox makes and excellent cut flower and offers an excellent vase life. Many of the smaller cultivars make nice container or patio pots.

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Caring for Your Hostas

Description: With its ease of growth, variety of plant shapes and sizes available, and diversity of leaf colorations, Hosta is one of the most desirable perennials for gardens with partial to full shade. In the landscape, the foliage can provide a bold presence while softening the appearance of well defined areas.

Hosta forms attractive mounds of basal foliage. The shape of the leaves ranges from narrow elliptic to very broad ovate or heart shaped. The leaf texture may be shiny, smooth, or puckered and consists of numerous colorations of yellow, white, and greens to blue-green with and without distinct veining or variegation.

They produce lily-like, bell-shaped, white, lilac, or blue colored flowers on stalks that rise above the foliage in the mid summer. Many cultivars produce fragrant flowers which are great for attracting hummingbirds into the garden.

There are literally hundreds of cultivars, hybrids, and species to choose from. Hostas are most commonly referred by only their cultivar names as the parentage is often unclear. With the diversity of leaf colorations, plant habits, flowering characteristics and ease of growth, Hostas will likely remain one of the most popular perennials of the 21st century.

Preferred Conditions: Hosta prefers to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil. However, they are tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions.

Most Hosta cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration when they are planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon. Many cultivars, especially variegated ones, will show signs of marginal leaf burn when grown in full afternoon sun. In general, gold- or yellow leafed cultivars can tolerate more sun, while blue-leafed or cultivars with lots of white variegation require more shady conditions.

Planting & Maintenance: Containerized Hosta can be planted throughout the growing season, but are most commonly planted in the spring or the fall. They should be planted even with or just slightly higher then the soil line.

Generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To maintain a clean and attractive appearance, many gardeners remove the flower stalks once the blossoms have faded. Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and reduce leaf scald on plants in sunnier locations. The foliage should be cut back at the end of the growing season. They can be divided every 3 to 4 years if the clumps become too large.

Pests and Diseases: Generally, they can be grown without many insect or disease problems. Aphids, crown rots, leaf spots, slugs, and spider mites may occasionally become problematic.
Of these pests, slugs will likely be the most prevalent and may require removing them by hand, trapping, or using baits to keep them from severely damaging the foliage. Some cultivars may get leaf scorch when they are planted in hot, full sun.

Uses in the Garden: Hosta are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland gardens or rock gardens, in borders, and as edging plants, groundcovers or mass plantings.

Other Uses and Attributes: They are commonly used in patio pots or smaller cultivars can be utilized as components in mixed containers. The flower spikes make fine additions to cut flower arrangements. When blooming they attract hummingbirds into the garden. These tough plants are also resistant to rabbit feeding.

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Caring for Your Heuchera

Description: With its colorful foliage, Heuchera is the perfect perennial to brighten up any garden throughout the entire growing season. Heuchera forms attractive basal mounds with heart-shaped, rounded, or triangular leaves which can be smooth wavy, or ruffled. The leaf coloration varies by cultivar, but mainly includes various hues of amber, bronze-green, green, gold, pink, purple, deep purple and silver veined. In many instances, the coloration of the leaves varies with their environment and often changes with the seasons. In most locations, they are considered evergreen as the foliage lasts throughout the year.

They produce clusters of cream to red colored coral bell shaped flowers on tall wiry stems that rise above the basal foliage in the late spring. Depending on the cultivar, they bloom from a few weeks or throughout the entire season.

There are 50 to 70 species of Heuchera which are native to North America. Many of the improved varieties available today are hybrids showcasing various foliage colorations and flowering characteristics.

Growth Habit: The foliage of most cultivars reaches 8 to 12 inches in height with a spread of 1 to 2 feet wide. When blooming, the flower stalks reach 1 to 3 feet tall.

Preferred Conditions: Coral bells prefer to be planted in locations with a fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They particularly do not perform well in locations with poor drainage during the winter months. Most Heuchera cultivars will grow more vigorously and have the best leaf coloration when they are planted in locations with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon. Purple leafed cultivars can tolerate more direct sun; in general the darker the purple coloration the more exposure to sun they can tolerate. Conversely, the amber and gold leafed cultivars are less sun tolerant; the more yellow the leaf coloration, the less tolerant to sun they are. In locations with full sun or full shade, most cultivars will usually survive, but they will be smaller and not look as lively.

Maintenance: Generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To encourage continuous flowering or repeat bloom, deadhead the spent flower spikes as needed. Mulching during the summer months will help keep the soil moist and prevent injury to the shallow root system from heat. They can be divided every 3 to 4 years if they lose vigor or when the crown gets too large.

Uses in the Garden: Heuchera are commonly used as accent or specimen plants, in woodland gardens or rock gardens, and as groundcovers or mass plantings.

Other Uses and Attributes: They are commonly used in patio pots or as components in mixed containers. The flower panicles make fine additions to cut flower arrangements. Heuchera attracts butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. They are also deer resistant.

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Caring for Your Iris

Description: With their ease of growth and colorful displays, Irises are ideal perennials for most gardeners. In the late spring to early summer they produce stately, showy blooms in a wide array of colorations and textures. Nearly every color of the rainbow is represented and the petals of the various cultivars range from plush velvet to the finest silk textures and satisfy a wide range of tastes. In additional to their flowering attributes, bearded Irises are easy to establish and require a minimum amount of maintenance.

Irises are most commonly described by their flower parts. The three petals that go upward are called ‘Standards’. The three that hang down are referred to as ‘Falls’. The fuzzy looking or hair-like parts on each of the ‘Falls’ is the ‘Beard’ (The common name, bearded Iris is referring to these flower parts). Each part of the flower can be the same or a different coloration. When all of the flower parts are the same color, it is called a ‘Self’.

Bearded Irises grow from thick, fleshy underground stems called rhizomes. The semi-evergreen leaves are stiff and strap-like (sword-shaped) and grow in fan-shaped clumps. Once established, they are very drought tolerant and work well in areas that receive only a limited amount of summer rainfall.

Preferred Conditions: Iris prefers to be planted in locations with a light, loamy, well-drained soil. Planting them in locations with poor drainage or in tight clay soils may keep the rhizomes too wet and often leads to poor plant performance and possibly plant mortality. Bearded Iris grows best in full sun, but will also perform well under partial shade. Excessive shade will reduce or prevent flowering.

Maintenance: Containerized Iris can be planted throughout the growing season, but are most commonly planted in the spring. They should be planted high enough so the top of the rhizome is slightly above the soil level.

They are generally considered easy to grow and require little routine maintenance. To encourage a nice flush of blooms, keep the soil moist, but not wet, just prior to flowering. To encourage reblooming types to re-flower in the late summer, they should be watered as needed throughout the growing season.

To prevent seed formation and maintain vigorous growth, cut the flower stalks back after the flowers fade to an inch or two above the rhizome. In the fall, cut the leaves back to 6-8 inches above the ground and destroy them to prevent future insect and disease problems.

They usually do not require the application of fertilizers. If fertilizers are applied, avoid placing them directly on the clumps as this can burn and injure the rhizomes. The use of mulches is also not recommended.

After 3 to 5 years, once the clumps become crowed, it may be beneficial to divide them. They can be divided at any time, but most commonly gardeners divide them 4 to 6 weeks after flowering. Cut the leaves to one-third their length. Dig up the clump and wash the soil off the roots and rhizomes. Cut the rhizomes apart so each section has at least one healthy fan of leaves, a firm rhizome, and white roots.

Uses in the Garden: Iris is most commonly used as specimen plants or in mass plantings.

Other Uses and Attributes: Bearded Iris can be grown in containers for indoor or outdoor uses. The flowers are commonly used as dried flowers or in cut flower arrangements. These tough plants are also resistant to various critters including deer and rabbits.

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Annual Aftercare

Most annuals are easy to grow and require relatively little maintenance to keep them looking great. After planting, the primary activities include feeding, watering, mulching, and deadheading.

Most annuals perform best when grown in fertile soils. Mulching the flower beds with compost each year often supplies an ample supply of nutrients. In beds covered with bark mulches or those with infertile soils, it is recommended to fertilize once or twice per year with a general purpose fertilizer. When applied at planting, slow release sources of nitrogen can often supply adequate nutrients for the entire growing season.

Annuals with a general yellow coloration often indicate that there is a shortage of nutrients available for the roots to uptake. If the plants appear yellow, it may be beneficial to side-dress them with a granular fertilizer or make applications using liquid fertilizers. Applying too much fertilizer causes many annuals to grow too quickly and may decrease the number of flowers produced.

For optimum growth, it is recommended annuals receive approximately 1 inch of water per week either by rainfall or through irrigation systems. When providing irrigation, it is important to thoroughly soak the soil and not just wet the surface. To prevent foliar diseases, avoid applying water to the foliage and flowers. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems work well for this in many scenarios. If irrigation is applied using sprinklers, run them in the early morning to allow the foliage to dry quickly in the sun.

Mulches consisting of numerous organic materials, such as shredded leaves, bark chips, and compost, are commonly applied around annuals to help retain moisture in the soil, decrease the emergence of weeds, and to add organic materials to the soil as they break down. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch around the plantings in the late spring, leaving about a one inch radius around the stem of each plant that does not have any mulch applied.

Many annuals benefit from deadheading or removing faded flowers and dead flower heads. This practice keeps the garden looking nice and encourages many annuals to continue blooming for an extended period. Removing the faded flowers allows the plant to put its energy into making new flowers rather then making seeds. Not only does this practice promote more flowers, it creates a longer blooming period.

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Soil Preparation & Annual Planting

In general, most annuals prefer being planted in sites with well drained soil. The drainage in poor soils can be improved by adding organic matter like, compost, leaves, peat moss, or aged manure. It’s always a good idea to mix in some organic matter into the flower beds at the beginning of each growing season. Organic matter helps the soil to hold the proper ratio of air, water, and nutrients which results in healthy, strong plants.

Most annuals are considered warm season plants and require warm air and soil temperatures for them to thrive. Cold temperatures will significantly slow down their development and exposure to frost will likely injure the tender leaves, and even kill the young plants. Unless the new plantings can be protected from cold temperatures and frost, it is best wait until after the last average frost date in your area to plant most annuals.

It is always best to plant your annuals when the weather is calm, cool, and overcast. Hot, direct sun and windy conditions may cause excessive stress on the newly planted annuals and may cause them to wilt, dry out, and possibly die under severe conditions. Otherwise, plant them in the early morning or in the evening (not during the heat of the day) to reduce stress from the direct midday sun.

Water the containers thoroughly before planting. Dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the size of the container you are planting. Carefully remove the annual from the container by holding one hand over the top of the pot and turn the container upside down. Gently tap the bottom of the pot to loosen the root zone from the container and gently pull the pot away. If the container does not easily come off, it may be necessary to squeeze the container until the plant comes out of the pot.

Next, place the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is at the same level as the top of the hole. It may be necessary to remove the plant and place a little soil back in the bottom of the planting hole and retry aligning the top of the hole with the top of the root ball. Many annuals do not tolerate being planted too deeply and may not perform well or even die when planted improperly. Once the plants are at the proper height, fill in the planting hole with soil, gently packing the soil around the roots and base of the plant, being careful to not overly pack or compact the soil around the new planting.

After planting, it is important to water them well. For the first couple of weeks or so, it is important to keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet. Keep in mind that many new plantings do not perform well or even die because they are either over- or under-watered.

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